Taking the last bite of a toast with caramel and banana, you move an empty coffee cup out of the way and get up to leave the café. After stepping outside, you look one last time at the sign above the door – Czarne Mleko (’Black milk’) – and feel the excitement of exploring a new city kicking in. It’s going to be a long day, but don’t worry, I’ll make sure you make the most of it. Consider it my invitation for a walk through Poznań – the city running through my veins.

Let’s go back to the café where you had your breakfast at. It’s located on Dąbrowskiego Street, my favorite place for thrifting, as it gathers a lot of second-hand stores close to each other. Put your newfound treasure in the bag, grab some fresh fruit at the Jeżycki Market you’re passing by, and you’re ready to go to the city center.

To get there, you’ll have to cross the Theatre Bridge. If you turn right before the bridge, you’ll see Poznań International Fair. It’s the largest trade fair space in Poland, with over 100 years of history and various events taking place constantly. Usually in June, you’ll find me somewhere in the colorful crowd of cosplayers, uniting for three days at Pyrkon – the biggest fantasy convention in Poland held right there. But since it’s only April so far, we’ll keep moving.

Instead, we’ll walk straight ahead, to the Grand Theatre with the pegasus proudly crowning its roof. Maybe you’ll have a chance to see an opera or a ballet there, or just snap a quick picture with the sculpture of a woman on a lion guarding the entrance. The park in front of it is a great place for a picnic in summer… I mean, if you find any free spot among all the other people who have the same idea.

Following the street with the theatre, a right turn takes you to the Imperial Castle. On the other hand, going straight will lead you to one of Poznań’s most famous buildings, Okrąglak (’The Round House’). Unfortunately, seeing its stunning staircase isn’t as easy anymore, so taking a look at the glass walls and – you guessed it – the round shape of the construction will have to be enough.

If you go left, you’ll get to my favourite café U Przyjaciół (‘At Friends’). The table of Sherlock Holmes will be waiting for you, keeping you company while you try to choose one out of the many flavors of hot chocolate. Or perhaps you prefer the Dorian Gray’s one together with the peach tea I usually order? No matter which one you decide on, don’t forget to leave a note in one of the miniature drawers, filled with memories and feelings that strangers poured onto the paper. Mine are somewhere there too. Walking a bit further along 23 Lutego Street, you’ll find the best cinnamon rolls in the city. Trying them is a must… but only if you’re prepared to be disappointed by every other cinnamon roll you’ll ever eat.

Next, you’ll walk through Freedom Square. It’s empty now, but it fills up with people for a Christmas market every year, and sometimes also for silent discos or other events. Don’t forget to look up to see the Wolność (’Freedom’) neon!

And finally, you get to the Old Market Square, the most representative place in Poznań. Walk around and take a moment to admire the colorful tenement houses – each one of them is unique. Recently the whole square’s surface has been renovated, replacing the big paving stones with the ones you can walk on in heels without twisting your ankles. The only price we paid was waiting two years and – in my opinion – losing some part of the charm of this place, but it’s still undoubtedly beautiful.

What’s up with the crowd gathering in front of the town hall, though? Well, it’s 12 o’clock. You made it just in time for the Poznań Goats, the symbol of the city. According to the legend, when the town hall was rebuilt after a fire, a huge feast was organized to celebrate the new clock. A young cook, Pietrek, was in charge of roasting a deer leg, but curiosity won – he left the kitchen to take a peek at the clock. By the time he returned, the meat was burnt. In panic, he grabbed two goats from the nearby meadow. Unfortunately for Pietrek – and fortunately for the animals – they escaped, climbed the tower and locked horns in front of the crowd. The show amused everyone, and instead of punishing Pietrek, the mayor ordered the clockmaker to add two mechanical goats to the design – making sure their famous duel would be remembered forever. Now they gather a crowd every day, exactly at noon.

If we’re talking about the legends, there’s one more you need to know. This one starts with Saint Martin, a Roman soldier. One winter day he saw a freezing beggar. In the act of compassion, he cut his cloak in half and gave one part to the man. Years later, in 1891, a baker named Walenty got inspired after hearing this story in a church in Poznań, and wanted to do something kind – just like Saint Martin. That night, after praying for guidance, he saw a mysterious knight on a horse, who left behind a horseshoe in the snow. Taking it as a sign, Walenty spent the night baking crescent-shaped pastries filled with white poppy seeds and nuts. He gave them to the poor after the church service, and the tradition caught on. To this day, on November 11th, Poznań celebrates with the said pastries – rogale świętomarcińskie – keeping the spirit of Saint Martin alive. No worries, you don’t have to come on this day to try them – you can find them in some bakeries all year round, or even see how they are made in Poznań Croissant Museum.

Obviously, we don’t eat just sweets. Did you really think I’m not going to mention potatoes while writing about Poland? Joke’s on you, we have a museum for this as well. In this region of Poland, we don’t call them ziemniaki – the basic Polish word for ‘potatoes’ – but pyry. It’s one of Poznań’s symbols, right next to the goats. If you don’t believe how serious we are about them, check our police mascot… yes, it’s a huge potato man. Oh, and remember the fantasy festival I mentioned before, Pyrkon? The name also comes from pyry. In Potato Museum of Poznań you’ll learn more about the history of this vegetable, and even prepare your own one to eat.

After all the new information, let’s jump back into city life. Półwiejska Street, always busy with street performers and customers, will lead you straight to Stary Browar – one of the most unique shopping centres in Poland. If you’re lucky, somewhere around here you might spot a person dressed up as a pigeon, recording TikToks… well, I guess it’s a topic for another time.

To truly feel Poznań, grab a drink in the evening, head to the Warta River, and join the students chilling on the grass. With the sky turning golden at sunset, take it all in. You’re part of the city now.

Anna Wojdziak

Sources:

Wikipedia – Poznań International Fair
Wikipedia – Koziołki poznańskie
Region Wielkopolska – Legenda o rogalach świętomarcińskich